A brief update on The Modern Pantry in Clerkenwell, which I bored you all about nearly three years ago (see last post). I loved it then, and love it still. Anna Hansen, made an MBE last year for her services to the restaurant industry, continues to cook lively and imaginative food. The standout dishes remain the light ethereal compositions, where the delicate flavours and spices she favours are not muddied by fat or carbohydrates. This scallop sashimi with cress and yuzu dressing was outstanding.
The cinder toffee ice cream is unbeatable, particularly when doused with a shot of dark espresso to make affogato, my desert island dessert.
The Modern Pantry is offering a set lunch for £20 at the moment. It might not be the trendiest place in town right now, and Bistro Bruno Loubet is flexing its Gallic muscles next door, but I promise you it's worth a punt.